Proceedings of the 1st Nusa Tenggara International Conference on Chemistry (NITRIC 2022)

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Approach Toward Natural Dyes for Coloring Songket Ikat Woven Using Hanjuang (Cordyline fruticosa) Extract

Authors
Dhony Hermanto1, *, Baiq Handayani Rinuastuti2, Nurul Ismillayli1, Handa Muliasari3, Ulul Khairi Zuryati4, Rochmad Kris Sanjaya5
1Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, University of Mataram, Mataram, Indonesia
2Department of Management, Faculty of Economics and Business, University of Mataram, Mataram, Indonesia
3Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Medicine, University of Mataram, Mataram, Indonesia
4Laboratory of Analytical Chemistry, Faculty of Natural Sciences, University of Mataram, Mataram, Indonesia
5Department of Medical Laboratory Technology, Faculty of Health Science, University of Kadiri, Kediri, Indonesia
*Corresponding author. Email: dhony.hermanto@unram.ac.id
Corresponding Author
Dhony Hermanto
Available Online 14 April 2023.
DOI
10.2991/978-94-6463-130-2_14How to use a DOI?
Keywords
Anthocyanin; songket; ikat; weaving; Sukarara
Abstract

Sukarara Village is a woven fabric tourism village on Lombok Island with featured songket and ikat weaving products. Natural dyes in woven fabrics are popular because they are more environmentally friendly, and the colours are more natural than synthetic dyes. However, natural dyes fade quickly, colour consistency is low, and colour variation is limited. This problem was overcome using a pH-based yarn staining technique using Hanjuang leaves (Cordyline Fruticosa). Anthocyanin solutions were varied from pH 2 to 10 using citrate-phosphate buffer solution and potash alum as the mordanting agent. RGB, UV-Visible, and FTIR spectrophotometric analyses were performed to study the effect of pH on anthocyanins and the effect of mordanting agents on the binding of anthocyanin colour. The colour of the anthocyanin solution shifted from red to yellow and turquoise with increasing pH from 2 to 10. Mordanting agents containing metal ions could bridge the binding of anthocyanins with cellulose in yarn by forming a coordination complex. The RGB value of yarn after immersion in anthocyanin solution is higher than the anthocyanin solution indicating more vigorous colour intensity was obtained when it was applied to yarn due to stronger alum-anthocyanin interaction with alum-yarn. Therefore, this method can be used as an alternative for textile colouring using anthocyanin pigments.

Copyright
© 2023 The Author(s)
Open Access
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/), which permits any noncommercial use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and indicate if changes were made.

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Volume Title
Proceedings of the 1st Nusa Tenggara International Conference on Chemistry (NITRIC 2022)
Series
Atlantis Highlights in Chemistry and Pharmaceutical Sciences
Publication Date
14 April 2023
ISBN
10.2991/978-94-6463-130-2_14
ISSN
2590-3195
DOI
10.2991/978-94-6463-130-2_14How to use a DOI?
Copyright
© 2023 The Author(s)
Open Access
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/), which permits any noncommercial use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and indicate if changes were made.

Cite this article

risenwbib
TY  - CONF
AU  - Dhony Hermanto
AU  - Baiq Handayani Rinuastuti
AU  - Nurul Ismillayli
AU  - Handa Muliasari
AU  - Ulul Khairi Zuryati
AU  - Rochmad Kris Sanjaya
PY  - 2023
DA  - 2023/04/14
TI  - Approach Toward Natural Dyes for Coloring Songket Ikat Woven Using Hanjuang (Cordyline fruticosa) Extract
BT  - Proceedings of the 1st Nusa Tenggara International Conference on Chemistry (NITRIC 2022)
PB  - Atlantis Press
SP  - 117
EP  - 127
SN  - 2590-3195
UR  - https://doi.org/10.2991/978-94-6463-130-2_14
DO  - 10.2991/978-94-6463-130-2_14
ID  - Hermanto2023
ER  -